Day 15: Roosevelt Park, Wash., to Umatilla, Oregon

Mileage: 54.6; 339 total

The route continued thru the desert (see photo) on the Washington side of the Columbia River, until crossing back into Oregon. Even this far upstream the river is still about 3/4 of a mile wide.

My plan is to relax tomorrow in Umatilla, so I will cut this short (my dinner was just served) and post more tomorrow.

Sent from my iPhone

Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us

www.walt-fatmanonabike.blogspot.com

Day 14: Resting at Roosevelt Park, Washington

I sent a brief note yesterday but it didn't post. So I will briefly rehash yesterday's ride: 41.6 miles; 284 total.

Yesterday I crossed a long bridge (gusty!) that took me into Washington State. Then a long steep uphill that ended when I turned right onto State Route 14. Sign said "No gas 84 miles" and it was somewhat desolate. The ocassional cattle ranch or, as I got farther east, fruit orchards. Scenery was interesting: note photo posted yesterday is looking back to the west, with Mt Hood (I think) in the distance.

I ended at Roosevelt Park, down by the riverside and close to West Roosevelt and North Roosevelt. There used to be only one Roosevelt, where the park is now, but some years ago the Govt built dams which flooded the town, and the people had to be relocated. They couldn't agree on one site-- hence West and North Roosevelt.

There was a very strong wind when I arrived. Yesterday morning, breaking camp, I broke a tent pole. I didn't want to struggle erecting a lame tent in a windstorm, so opted to sleep on the floor in a small pavillion that held a picnic table. (see photo from yesterday) Most of the pavillion walls were open, but I was snug against a brick wall, well protected from
the wind. But at 1:15 am I was awakened by water: a sprinkler system used to water the lawns had gone off, and I was in the target zone of one sprinkler. The park attendant had advised me of the sprinklers and told me to borrow a sprinkler "deflector" if I was going to be pitching a tent. But he said the sprinklers wouldn't hit the pavillion. He was wrong. But I used one oft bicycle panniers (waterproof) as a deflector and slept comfortably the rest of the night.

Today I rested,napped, and repaired my tent pole. It was sunny all day, with little wind.

Note: although I have the camping area all to myself, this park is popular with windsurfers. Even though I am almost 300 miles upstream the river is stop a good mile across!

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Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us

www.walt-fatmanonabike.blogspot.com

5/29 pictures

Oregon: The Dalles to Deschutes River State Park

Mileage: 18.3; 243 total

I am blogging from my warm sleeping bag in my tent by the Deschutes River, by the site of a major river crossing on the old Oregon Trail. It is a cool, windy evening and I am glad to be here.

When I got up this morning I realized that I was still fatigued from yesterday's hills, so I decided to take advantage of an upcoming flat stretch of road and just take a "rest/rejuvenation" ride. I had a short trip in the rain, requiring little effort.

The scenery has changed considerably as I have traveled east(see above photo).

The rain had stopped by the time I arrived so I didn't need to pitch the tent (see photo) in the rain. All of my camping equipment was recommended by a nephew and I am glad I followed his advice. It's great. Thanks, Adam!

The campground is almost empty, with only one truck-camper and one other tent in sight. The tent, a quite large one, belongs to Maynard from Newburg (near Portland) who likes to come to the Deschutes to fish for steelhead. Thanks, Maynard, for the
beer and the story about how the state is trying to control the delinquent seals who hang out by the fish ladder--let me know if your plans fall into place for a trip to NYC in September so that I can give you some suggestions.

Sent from my iPhone

Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us

www.walt-fatmanonabike.blogspot.com

Oregon: Wyeth to The Dalles

Mileage: 37.4; 224 total

Early this afternoon Leslie dropped me off at Wyeth, my ending point from two days before. Leslie and I had had a very enjoyable week in Oregon, especially the last few days in the Gorge, and it will probably be July or later before we meet again, so my departure was sad for both of us.

Below is a picture of me ready to go and fully loaded (the bike, not me).

The first 12 miles or so were on I-84: not pleasant, but actually not too bad.

The remainder of the ride was on the Historic Columbia River Highway and on beautiful portions of the original 1913 era Highway that have been restored for bikes and hikers. There were spectacular views (see photo) and an old tunnel (see photo).

As you proceed west to east thru the Gorge there is a noticible change from the rain forests of the west to the arid, desert area of eastern Oregon and Washington (see photo looking across the Columbia river to Washington).

From Hood River on the ride had lots of climbing, and I was glad to arrive in The Dalles!

Sent from my iPhone

Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us

Rest day at Columbia Gorge Hotel

Leslie and I have been enjoying this beautiful hotel with its gorgeous views (see 4 photos, attached).

Today we enjoyed visiting Hood River and watching the wind suffers (!) and kite boarders (!!!). Then we went to a wine tasting at Maryhill Vinyards across the river in Wash.

Note to Dana F, Stan H, Tracey E and any other epicures who may be reading this: Leslie and I have been really impressed by the quality of the restaurants in Oregon, and the dining at the Columbia Gorge Hotel ranks high on our list.

Oops! I need to quit blogging and dig into my dinner. (photo attached)

Sent from my iPhone

Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us

Oregon: Corbett to Wyeth

Mileage: 33.8; 187 total

My friend Lars Fjeldstad, whom I hadn't met until this morning, joined me for this scenic ride in the Columbia River Gorge. (Lars's parents, in Minneapolis, rented our Cape May house for a week this summer. When Lars's father, Paul, called me last week with a question about the house he found out that I was in Portland on my bike ride, said that his son Lars lived in Portland and might enjoy joining me, and one thing led to another and he did. Thanks, Paul, for your suggestion, and thank you, Lars, for keeping me company.) I had a great time! [Picture of Lars and me, enjoying the view, is posted below.]

This was a beautiful ride. Although there was a soft rain at the start, the rain and fog soon dissipated and eventually the sun was shining. The route had a few miles along I-84, but most of the time we were on the Historic Columbia River Highway or, even more appealing, portions of the original scenic highway, built in 1913, that are now used as a bike path. The scenery was wonderful [see photo, below, for one example] and there were lots of interesting stops along the way -- it is no wonder why this is considered one of the most wonderous highways in the U.S. Adding to the great day, we frequently joined up with Leslie, who was driving and enjoying the same stops.

It was also another good day for "hill training." There were rolling hills the whole way, and the last stretch included a hill about 1 mile long that was the steepest grade I have encountered this whole trip. Leslie picked me up after my descent, and we checked into the Columbia River Gorge Inn, in Hood River, where we are spending the next two nights.

Oregon: Linnton to Corbett (or, thru Portland to the Columbia River Gorge)

Mileage: 34.5 today; 153 total

Although I really needed the three day's rest in the Portland area, I was glad to get back on the bike today. This was a pleasant trip over the St. John's Bridge into Portland, thru residential areas with little traffic, along the river just to the north of the Portland airport, and then eventually to Troutdale and the Historic Columbia River Gorge Highway, then basically uphill as far as Corbett.


I am fortunate that Leslie is with me, traveling by rental car, until Tuesday, when she will need to return to the airport to fly east and I will continue, slowly, by bicycle. While she is with me all my "luggage" is loaded in the car!

In a recent comment, Larissa asked why I was carrying panniers rather than pulling a bike trailer, and how much does all my stuff weigh? Good questions. I considered a trailer, but decided that because some of my future trips might begin or end on the NYC subway it would be better to go with panniers. This morning, before leaving, I was disappointed to learn that my stuff weighs about 70 pounds! I was hoping that I could keep it to 50 pounds, but that goal seems about impossible. More on this weight problem later -- Leslie and I need to go out to dinner.

Packing: Clothes & Equipment

Dave B. asked what I was carrying on the bike. That's a good question, and I have been struggling to minimize the weight I'll be carrying.

On the first four days, from the coast to the outskirts of Portland, I went fairly light because I knew that I would not be camping on this portion. But as I leave the Portland area next week I expect to be camping more than staying in motels, because camping will give me a lot more flexibility in terms of how far I travel each day. Also, I somewhat enjoy camping, and expect to find quite a few nice campgrounds.

So, here is what I will be taking.

Camping Equipment (all very lightweight)
*one-man tent (MSR), with a rain fly and a ground cloth
*down sleeping bag (Big Agnes)
*self-inflating sleeping pad (Big Agnes) - the pad slips into an insert in the sleeping bag, so this not only saves weight (less insulation in the bag)but it prevents you from slipping off the pad when you are sleeping
*small cooking stove (MSR)
*propane canister (MSR)
*cooking pot (MSR - the propane cannister packs inside it)
*spoon
*matches
*sponge and detergent
*an insulated mug (I can put oatmeal in it, pour in boiling water, put the top on and let it cook in a few minutes)

Clothes
Note: For obvious reasons it all needs to be light weight. Also, it needs to be quick drying because I will usually be washing it by hand in a sink and expecting it to dry overnight. Certainly cotton is out.

For biking:
*three pairs standard biking shorts (they may look silly, but nothing is more comfortable)
*four shortsleeve biking jerseys
*four pairs of socks
*biking shoes of course
*a good rain suit - jacket, pants, and shoe covers
*a polypropelene head covering - these are great to wear under your helmet on a hot day, because they are a sweat band, plus they wick away sweat, keep those of us with thinning hair from getting sunburned through the holes in the helmet, and protect your neck from sunburn

For wearing off the bike:
*a pile jacket (which will double as a pillow that I can stuff into a pocket in the sleeping bag)
*polypropolene long johns, a long-sleeved wool jersey, and a pile cap -- this stuff, plus the pile jacket and the rain jacket should keep me warm on cold evenings
*two changes under shorts and shirts
*one pair of hiking shorts
*one sport shirt
*one pair nylon pants
*one long-sleeved "sunblock" shirt
*one pair wool socks
*one pair sandals
*one broadbrimmed hat to keep the sun off me
*one pair swimming trunks (which are actually bike shorts but look like swimming trunks
*one pair nylon gym shorts

Stuff that I am taking with the hope that I will not need it:
*a spare tire
*two spare tubes
*a bicycle tire pump
*a first-aid kit
*nylon rope (I guess it might come in handy for something)
*bike tools (flat repair kit, multi-purpose bike tool, extra set of rear brake pads, and so forth)

Food
I will be taking some very simple staples: oatmeal, dried skim milk, sugar, five freeze-dried backpacking dinners; beef jerkey; fruits and nuts for snacking. The key is that, because food is generally heavy, I will just have a few days "emergency" supply with me, and will be counting on re-stocking along the way.

Miscellaneous
*a Camelback for water (I will have three water bottles on the bike, and will only use the Camelback when water is going to be somewhat "scarce"
*a "Platypus" watercarrier, so that I can carry up to 6 additional liters of water, if necessary
*a multipurpose Leatherman knife/tool
*a digital camera with its battery charger
*a sketch pad, with some charcoal, pencils, pastels
*a journal
*sunblock
*insect repellent
*two pairs of sunglasses, plus my regular glasses
*a set of four bike maps
*compact binoculars
*a compass (I don't know why I would need this, but what the heck)
*a cable bicycle lock (combination, not key)
*toiletry kit: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, soap, toilet paper (you never know when you might need this), "camping" face towel, and a full size camping bath towel
*prescription drugs: I take so many different drugs that packing it all actually is an issue for this trip, but I will have about three months supply, plus prescriptions if needed
*wallet
*passport; living will
*flashlight
*iPhone
*solar-powered battery charger for the iPhone

Taking it Easy, with Training Tips for Non-Bicyclists

In my first posting to this blog I noted that I intended to take it easy on this trip, meandering across the country without concern for speed. I want to elaborate a little about what I mean by "taking it easy." This might be of some informational value to non-bicyclists.

First and foremost, my interest is on relaxing and enjoying the pleasures of sightseeing by bike. I don't want to get into the syndrome of rushing from day to day, from one destination to the next, without stopping to appreciate what's around me.

Second, I mean limiting the frequency of days on the bike. Most bicycling trainers advise to bicycle for no more than five or six days per week, because rest days are vital.

I plan to take a couple of days off each week, at least during the first couple of months (after that I might change to one rest day and one very light day). Depending on circumstances of overnight accommodations and supplies and how I am feeling, I intend to take one "rest day" every third or fourth day. (Note: I violated this rule of thumb slightly by biking for four days straight at the start of the trip, but at least the 4th day was very light work.)

Third, I mean limiting the duration of time spent bicycling each day. Virtually all the experts recommend increasing the weekly "saddle time" by no more than 10%-15% per week, and I want to stick close to the lower end of that range. During the first week (four days bicycling plus probably three days off) I spent about 12 hours bicyling, with the longest ride being about 4 3/4 hours. So my goal next week will be no more than 13 or 14 hours in total, with the longest day no more than about 5 1/2 hours. Being able to "restrain" myself is what I consider my biggest challenge, and what will most likely determine if I am able to complete this trip. Younger people (Mark C?)recover much more quickly from exercise, but I know that I need to be very careful not to overdue it or I'll get sick. But a mere 10%/week increase means doubling my time in 7 weeks, and so I should soon be at my goal of about 30 hours/week.

Note: On a longer-term basis, trainers recommend making every fourth week an "easy" week. But for long-distance rides, like this one, they recommend making every third week an easy week. So I intend to slack off a bit every third week.

Fourth, I mean limiting the intensity of my exercise, as measured by heartrate. For the first couple of months, at least, I want to treat each day's ride as a "long slow aerobic" ride, with a relatively low (in other words unstresed) heartrate. For me that is in the range of 117/bpm to 127/bpm. It will not be possible to keep my heartrate this low on climbs, of course, but generally this will me my goal and I will be monitoring it closely (Oops! I forgot to take my monitor on the first four days of the trip.) After a couple of months of this I should have developed a good "base level" of aerobic training, which is the degree of fitness I should have acquired before starting this trip.

Non-bicyclists sometimes (naturally) assume that getting into shape for bicycling means getting your muscles used to pedaling, especially to the point that you can go uphill. That's a necessary first step, of course, but that is relatively easy. The real key is building a reasonable level of cardio/pulmonary fitness, which can only be done over a long period of time, gradually increasing the load that you are putting on your body and giving it plenty of time to rest.

Oregon: Scappoose to Linnton

Mileage: 14.7; 118 total.

This was an easy ride down US 30 to meet Leslie, who had flown in to Portland a couple of days ago and driven over to meet me in this little town just to the north-west of Portland. It was great to see her after two weeks, and nice to be heading over to Tracey's for two or three days off the bike. I need a rest -- and a chance to use a computer to post some longer blogs.

Note 1: Yesterday's posting misspelled Scappoose, using one "p" instead of two. My apoligies to all the Scappoosians who may be reading this blog.

Note 2: For readers who are unfamiliar with blogs: Are you aware that after some postings there are commennts sent in by readers? Check under the posting, and if it says there are 1 or more comments, click on "comments" to view them. You may want to contribute your own.

Photos

Larissa posted some photos for me.

The May 17 posting now has two photos: starting out from in front of the Lewis & Clark monument in Seaside and one on the approach to Astoria.

The May 18 post now has a photo of a scenic view along the way.
Sent from my iPhone

Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us

Oregon: Clatskapie to Scapoose

Sent from my iPhone

Walt Wright

917 783 6540

Walterwright@brooklynny.us

Begin forwarded message:

From: Walter Wright <waltercwright@yahoo.com>
Date: May 19, 2008 8:40:55 PM PDT
To: Walter Wright <walterwright@brooklynny.us>
Subject: Oregon: Clatskapie to Scapoose

Mileage: 43.9 miles today; 103 total

Leaving my motel the road started up what turned out to be a three-mile climb. After about 0.5 miles I excited a group of large buzzards in the thick woods by the side of the road. Then I smelled the stench of rotting flesh and was relieved to realize that the buzzards already had their carcass to feast on, and weren't waiting for mine.

After another mile or so, poking along at about 3 1/2 mph, I found a great pair of sunglasses on the side of the road -- much nicer than what I had bought for this trip. I am sure the previous owner was annoyed to have lost them, as I will undoubtedly be, too, when I lose or break them.

Soon I was over the crest and on a 1.5 downhill run. Another flat mile or two and then a steeper 1.5 mile downhill into Rainier. I stopped at the Evergreen Cafe for coffee and toast with peanut butter, which really hit the spot -- thanks, Barb, if you are reading this blog.

A Rainier local advised me that the Lady Washington was tied up at the dock a couple of blocks away, so I went over to see her. She is a 105 foot sailing vessel supposedly built as a replica of the first ship to sail into Puget Sound. She is used for educational purposes and was on her way upsteam to Portland. I was considering asking if the captain could take me and my bike to Portland, in exchange for my labor as a deckhand, but heard that she was laid up for repairs.

I continued, @20 miles to St Helens with another coffee stop, then about 10 more to Scapoose.

I don't normally expect to send such long messages from my iPhone, but this evening I have a very pleasant place to peck away on this tiny keyboard. I am on the patio of the Scapoose Creek Inn, owned and run by Sherry and Jerry. I am enjoying the cool evening, watching their two llamas graze in this quiet setting.


Sent from my iPhone

Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us

Oregon: Astoria to Clatskasie

Mileage: 35.0 today; 60 total.

Another beautiful day. Quite hilly, with a couple of long climbs and long downhills. The route (U.S 30) was very rural and somewhat scenic, but narrow shoulders much of the way with cars/trucks/campers speeding by decreased the tranquility of the ride.

Due to unresoved technical problems I cannot post photos from my iPhone, but I expect one or two photos taken yesterday and today will soon be posted.

Sent from my iPhone

Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us

Oregon: Seaside to Astoria

Oregon: Seaside to Astoria (24.2 miles)

This was a beautiful ride on a beautiful day--a perfect start for this trip.

This morning Tracey, Leslie's youngest sister, drove me and my bike to Beaverton for some final adjustments to my bike, and then took me all the way to Seaside for the start of my trip. This was just what I needed, because it was time for me to get started.

Over the past few days I had gotten a bit apprehensive about the trip: the reality of my inadequate training was sinking in; my lingering head cold and cough made me feel weak; I was somewhat intimidated by the weight of all the stuff I would be carrying, and didn't know how I would be able to haul it up hills; I was nervous about learning how to use the integrated shifting/brake lever system. I knew I should get started before wimping out completely.

The starting point, a Lewis & Clark statue by the beach, was packed with tourists and not very pleasant-- Seaside is a bit of a honky-tonk beach town. But within a mile or two I was on a little-used road climbing a long hill (@300 feet of climbing over @1.5 miles -- maybe not really to extreme, but we sure don't have hills like that in Brooklyn!). Then of course lots of downhill over rolling countryside with immense evergreen trees and occassional farms and horses. And then over a long bridge into Astoria, on the Columbia River about 15 miles upstream. From my motel I can hear a lot of seals barking in the distance -- I think they are hanging around a fish processing plant.

Prior to starting out, and contrary sound advice, I hsd very little experience with this bike before starting out -- I had logged a total of only 0.2 miles, in Tracey's driveway But it turned out to be wonderful to ride. It's low gears got me over the hills, and its hard, skinny seat was very comfortable. And for some reason, whenever I checked my speed I thought that I was going surprisingly fast for the effort I was expending!

Sent from my iPhone

Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us

Co-Motion Americano

This is my new bike, made by Co-Motion.

The two couplings that you might see enable you to break the frame into two pieces and then pack the bike into a suitcase that is a "standard size." This will come in hand7 if I want to pack the bike up and fly off for a cycling vacation sometime.

The bike is not light, but its steel frame and fat tires should be strong enough to comfortably handle my weight and gear (and give me a comfortable ride!). As shown, with the front and rear pannier racks, and fenders, it weighs just over 30 pounds.

Prelude #7: iPhone and Blogging; About to Start

I am gradually figuring out how to set up and manage this blog, but have been frustrated by the fact that I cannot post photos directly from my iPhone to the blog. All I have been able to learn so far is that this might be a technical issue with either the iPhone, with Yahoo, or with Blogger.com. All this is annoying to a non-techie who just wants to purchase the equipment and use it without glitches.

Until this gets resolved I will need to email any photos to my daughter, Larissa, and have her download them to her computer and then post them. to my blog That's how the two photos of me were posted.

If all goes well I expect to start my trip tomorrow. Tracey, my sister-in-law, has offered to give me a lift over to Seaside, Or tomorrow morning. Then I plan to wend my way back to Portland over the course of several days, getting plenty of rest along the way to completely rid myself of a lingering cold. I will then join Leslie, who is flying in from NYC, and we will spend a few days relaxing and sightseeing before I take off again.

Prelude #6

Some viewers of this blog have expressed concern that its name may raise false expectations about my degree of obesity. Good friends have told me, "Walt, you are disgustingly fat, but you are not a Guiness Record Holding Porker, and that's what readers will be expecting when they are enticed by the name of your blog."

But I disagree. Sure, I can walk through any neighborhood in the U.S. and find people who are a lot fatter than myself, but my corpulence is significant. A working definition of "morbidly obese" is "being 100 pounds or more overweight." I am borderline morbidly obese. My current weight is 272 pounds. When I graduated from college I was 175; when I got out of the army I was about 180. So I would need to drop 92 to 97 pounds to weigh what I did as a young adult. That's a lot of excess blubber, and I will be feeling every pound of it when am climbing hills on my bicycle.

Prelude #5

I have had a great week in Anchorage. Tonight I'm catching the red-eye to Portland, and I should be picking up my new bicycle tomorrow afternoon.



Sent from my iPhone Walt Wright 917 783 6540 Walterwright@brooklynny.us

Prelude #4

This is my second "before" picture. It clearly shows where I carry my excess weight!

Losing weight is certainly NOT the reason for this bike ride, but that certainly would be a welcome side benefit. How much weight will I lose if I complete the whole trip? I think I should lose at least 20 pounds, and if I lost less I would be quite disappointed. 30 pounds might be a reasonable guess, and I would love to lose more. Time will tell.



Sent from my iPhone Walt Wright 917 783 6540 Walterwright@brooklynny.us

Prelude #3

This is my test of posting photos to my blog, from my iPhone, and represents the first of two "before" pictures.

Note: This test didn't work: the text posted, but not the photo. I had to post the picture from a computer. I am trying to understand why I couldn't post the picture from my iPhone:.

Sent from my iPhone Walt Wright 917 783 6540 Walterwright@brooklynny.us

Prelude #2

This is my first test of whether I can blog directly from my iPhone. Assuming I can, I intend to post brief notes on a daily basis while en route, with longer narratves when I have access to a computer (so that I don't need to peck with my thumbs on this tiny keyboard!).

Sent from my iPhone

Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us

Prelude #1

I am creating this blog in anticipation of a solo bicycle ride across the United States, from Seaside, Oregon to Brooklyn, NY. If all goes as planned I will depart from Seaside in mid-to-late May.

My intention is to meander across the country slowly, enjoying the trip and not being concerned about speed or schedules. I recently retired, and for the first time in my adult life I am free of timelines and responsibilities. My only goal is gradual progress toward home, passing through Buffalo NY, I hope, before its first snowfall. My biggest challenge will be forcing myself to go slowly, especially in the early weeks, so that I don't stress my old, out-of-shape body and end up plagued with a series of sore throats/colds that prevent me from completing my little adventure.

Thoreau once said something to the effect that the pleasure of a journey is inversely related to the speed with which it is undertaken. That will be my motto for this trip.

I am fortunate that Leslie is so understanding and supportive of my plans, even though she probably thinks this is somewhat of a foolish undertaking. I guess that after 40 years of marriage she has gotten somewhat accustomed to my foolishness.

This blog is intended to be of use to any friends and relatives who want to check my progress from time to time. But my phone and email will be working, and I look forward to hearing from you all.