Another fantastic day with wonderful experiences! Details later.
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Day 44 (June 29): Three Forks Area to Helena, MT
Mileage: 68.1; 1,133 total
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Day 43 (June 28): Whitehall to Campground near Three Forks, MT
Mileage: 34.3; 1064.5 total
Another great day.
When I set out this morning I intended to either go to Townsend or to stop half-way, near Three Forks. When I arrived near Three Forks late this afternoon I decided it would be good to stop for the night.
I set up my tent, took a shower, and then peddled up the road mile to a restaurant for dinner. The sandwich and chile were pretty good, so I plan to have breakfast there as I leave tomorrow.
The route followed the Jefferson River. At Three Forks (which unfortunately is three miles off my route), the Jefferson merges with the Madison and Gallitin Rivers, forming the start of the Missouri River.
I was slower than I expected today, for several reasons: sleeping late and not getting on the road until 11 am; facing a moderate headwind most of the way; stoppingrt many times for photos; stopping to watch birds (prairie falcon?); talking with a guy selling sluice boxes out of his truck, by the river; talking to folks at the Lewis & Clark Caverns (but not taking the tour); viewing the Parker Homestead (see last photo).
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Friday, June 27, 2008
Day 42 (June 27): Dillon to Whitehall, MT
Mileage: 60.8; 1030 total
Had breakfast at McDonald's with Craig, Doug, and their 11 middle school students, after having loaded my panniers into their van. Then we all headed out, but I soon fell behind and was comfortable proceeding at my more relaxed pace.
The route went north, following the Beaverhead River and then the Jefferson River through a broad farming/grazing valley, with the Beaverhead Mtns to the west and the Tobacco Root Mtns to the east. I had never heard of the Tobacco Root Mts, but they are pretty impressive.
For those of you who may be familiar with the saga of Lewis & Clark, this is the area where Sacajewega first recognized places she had come to as a young girl with her tribe, Shosones. She particularly remembered Beaver Head Rock, which had been a traveler's landmark for thousands of years.
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Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Day 41 (June 26): Poking Around in Dillon
Mileage 5.1; 969 total
Library, museum, meals, etc.
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Bear at Sula (continued)
So, to conclude that story, I wanted to assure my family and any other friends that my plan has been, when camping in a place that would potentially have bears (or other animals), to hang my bag of food and cooking utensils in a bag from a tree limb. In fact, based on some advice from a mother/daughter pair of outdoorswomen from Helena (formerly from Alaska) I will also include, in the bag, the cloths that I was wearing when I cooked and ate the food.
Several people -- Bob I., Claude F., and others -- have enquired about how I would "protect" myself on this trip. Some people have asked if I am armed. As far as protection from people is concerned, I suspect that I am as safe on this trip as I would be if I was hanging around in NYC or anywhere else, for that matter. People here in the West have been extraordinarly helpful, friendly, and trusting, and their trusting nature is probably a reflection of the fact that people out here can generally be trusted. So, as far as I am concerned, on this trip I am as safe from people as I would be anywhere.
As far as animals are concerned, the only animals to actually be concerned about are bears. Other predators, such as mountain lions or wolves, are much less likely to approach anyplace that has humans. And as far as bears are concerned, the fact that I am traveling by bicycle doesn't make me any more vulnerable than anyone else who is camping. One just needs to be careful and prudent.
My bigger concern is dogs. So far, the only dog that has given chase was a pug, and with its short little legs to run on it didn't pose much of a threat. I will pick up a can of "Halt" (pepper spray), because I think the dog threat will probably increase as I head east.
Several people -- Bob I., Claude F., and others -- have enquired about how I would "protect" myself on this trip. Some people have asked if I am armed. As far as protection from people is concerned, I suspect that I am as safe on this trip as I would be if I was hanging around in NYC or anywhere else, for that matter. People here in the West have been extraordinarly helpful, friendly, and trusting, and their trusting nature is probably a reflection of the fact that people out here can generally be trusted. So, as far as I am concerned, on this trip I am as safe from people as I would be anywhere.
As far as animals are concerned, the only animals to actually be concerned about are bears. Other predators, such as mountain lions or wolves, are much less likely to approach anyplace that has humans. And as far as bears are concerned, the fact that I am traveling by bicycle doesn't make me any more vulnerable than anyone else who is camping. One just needs to be careful and prudent.
My bigger concern is dogs. So far, the only dog that has given chase was a pug, and with its short little legs to run on it didn't pose much of a threat. I will pick up a can of "Halt" (pepper spray), because I think the dog threat will probably increase as I head east.
Bear at Sula, MT
Sula, MT (population 50) basically consisted of a gas station and restaurant, with cabins for rent and camping behind the restaurant. I spent two nights there.
I had a small but comfortable cabin (photo to be attached eventually).
In fact, you might call this a luxury cabin, because it was right on the golf course (photo of a miniature golf course to be attached).
The cabin next to mine was occupied by a fellow from California who was a friend of the owner. He told me that he had planned to camp, but that the owner advised him to stay in a cabin, instead, because she had been having problems with a black bear coming down from the mountains to get in the garbage cans. (I don't think she told this to the others who were camping in tents!)
The second night the bear came down to see what it could find to eat. It knocked over two large garbage cans (see photo). When the photo is posted you will see a stainless-steel contraption right next/behind the strewn garbage: this is a bear trap, but the bear didn't take the bait. The owner heard the bear and drove to it in her truck, trying to frighten it away without much success. It eventually ran behind my cabin, crossed the road, and left. I remember hearing some noise in the middle of the night, but basically slept through all of the commotion. I wasn't aware of it until a walked to the restrooms in the morning, and saw the garbage. And saw a large "deposit" that the bear had left in front of my cabin.
I am being kicked off the computer, so all for now.......
I had a small but comfortable cabin (photo to be attached eventually).
In fact, you might call this a luxury cabin, because it was right on the golf course (photo of a miniature golf course to be attached).
The cabin next to mine was occupied by a fellow from California who was a friend of the owner. He told me that he had planned to camp, but that the owner advised him to stay in a cabin, instead, because she had been having problems with a black bear coming down from the mountains to get in the garbage cans. (I don't think she told this to the others who were camping in tents!)
The second night the bear came down to see what it could find to eat. It knocked over two large garbage cans (see photo). When the photo is posted you will see a stainless-steel contraption right next/behind the strewn garbage: this is a bear trap, but the bear didn't take the bait. The owner heard the bear and drove to it in her truck, trying to frighten it away without much success. It eventually ran behind my cabin, crossed the road, and left. I remember hearing some noise in the middle of the night, but basically slept through all of the commotion. I wasn't aware of it until a walked to the restrooms in the morning, and saw the garbage. And saw a large "deposit" that the bear had left in front of my cabin.
I am being kicked off the computer, so all for now.......
Resting in Dillon, MT; the Group from Palm Desert, California
I am glad to have a chance today to be relaxing, and spending time at the library cleaning up the blog and catching up on email correspondence.
The blog got somewhat confused in the last few days, due to limited AT&T access. At one point, in Wisdom, I found out that the restaurant had Wi-Fi, but as I was posting I lost the Wi-Fi service because the electricity was cut off for the whole region. I wasn't clear on what had been posted and what hadn't been, and as a consequence some things were posted twice. But I think I have now gotten that all cleaned up.
I made a bunch of minor corrections to some of the blogs from the last week....mainly dates, typos, etc. Nothing of consequence changed, but I do apologize to Caitlin, the 11-year old who is bicycling to Massachusets with her sister and parents, for having accidentally spelled her name "Cairlin."
In a prior post I mentioned that Craig and Doug transported my baggage yesterday. We are all camping at the same place in Dillon, and they invited me to have dinner with them last evening. The kids are responsible for doing all the cooking. Last evening two of the boys had "kitchen duty," and they cooked hamburgers, with roasted potatos and corn. It was a nice ending to a beautiful day.
Craig, a humanities teacher at a middle-school in Palm Desert, California, started a non-profit group called Historic Youth Tours. He and Doug and 11 kids drove from Southern California to Montana, where they are taking a bicycling tour for about a week, including visits to historic sites and capped by a raft trip. Including the drive, I think this is about a two-week excursion for them.
Craig is an avid bicyclist and recruited his friend Doug, president of the Palm Desert Bicycling Club, to join him on this year's trip. Of the eleven kids, two are 14 year-old girls (Clarissa and Margaret, both of whom I enjoyed talking with last evening) and nine boys aged 12 and 13. Their equipment includes: a passenger van that holds the whole gang; a trailer, outfitted by Craig to hold all the bicycles and luggage; two ten-person tents, one for the boys and one for the girls (the two girls on this trip have plenty of space!); and small tents for each of the adults. The organization also owns several bicycles that are used by kids who did have have bicycles appropriate for this trip.
I haven't had the pleasure of riding with the group, because they have started off in the morning before me. But even if I had started with them, I doubt that I could have kept up. In order to be permitted to join the group the kids had to train for several months, with lots of hill work, so they are in great shape! And of course both Craig and Doug are avid bicyclists. (Doug, incidentally, has a Co-Motion bicycle that is almost identical to mine -- other than mine, his is the only other one that I have seen.)
The kids have all been well-behaved and friendly, and seem to be enjoying the trip very much. I am sure that they don't yet appreciate how lucky they are to have had Craig start this organization, and to have Doug volunteer his time to help with this trip. But as the years go by they undoubtedly will -- ten, twenty, sixty years from now they will be talking about the great time that they had on this trip, and they will remember Craig and Doug.
I intend to post a photo of this group when I am able to.
And I have already asked them to transport my baggage one more day, tomorrow, from here to Whitehall, at which point we will be going in different directions.
The blog got somewhat confused in the last few days, due to limited AT&T access. At one point, in Wisdom, I found out that the restaurant had Wi-Fi, but as I was posting I lost the Wi-Fi service because the electricity was cut off for the whole region. I wasn't clear on what had been posted and what hadn't been, and as a consequence some things were posted twice. But I think I have now gotten that all cleaned up.
I made a bunch of minor corrections to some of the blogs from the last week....mainly dates, typos, etc. Nothing of consequence changed, but I do apologize to Caitlin, the 11-year old who is bicycling to Massachusets with her sister and parents, for having accidentally spelled her name "Cairlin."
In a prior post I mentioned that Craig and Doug transported my baggage yesterday. We are all camping at the same place in Dillon, and they invited me to have dinner with them last evening. The kids are responsible for doing all the cooking. Last evening two of the boys had "kitchen duty," and they cooked hamburgers, with roasted potatos and corn. It was a nice ending to a beautiful day.
Craig, a humanities teacher at a middle-school in Palm Desert, California, started a non-profit group called Historic Youth Tours. He and Doug and 11 kids drove from Southern California to Montana, where they are taking a bicycling tour for about a week, including visits to historic sites and capped by a raft trip. Including the drive, I think this is about a two-week excursion for them.
Craig is an avid bicyclist and recruited his friend Doug, president of the Palm Desert Bicycling Club, to join him on this year's trip. Of the eleven kids, two are 14 year-old girls (Clarissa and Margaret, both of whom I enjoyed talking with last evening) and nine boys aged 12 and 13. Their equipment includes: a passenger van that holds the whole gang; a trailer, outfitted by Craig to hold all the bicycles and luggage; two ten-person tents, one for the boys and one for the girls (the two girls on this trip have plenty of space!); and small tents for each of the adults. The organization also owns several bicycles that are used by kids who did have have bicycles appropriate for this trip.
I haven't had the pleasure of riding with the group, because they have started off in the morning before me. But even if I had started with them, I doubt that I could have kept up. In order to be permitted to join the group the kids had to train for several months, with lots of hill work, so they are in great shape! And of course both Craig and Doug are avid bicyclists. (Doug, incidentally, has a Co-Motion bicycle that is almost identical to mine -- other than mine, his is the only other one that I have seen.)
The kids have all been well-behaved and friendly, and seem to be enjoying the trip very much. I am sure that they don't yet appreciate how lucky they are to have had Craig start this organization, and to have Doug volunteer his time to help with this trip. But as the years go by they undoubtedly will -- ten, twenty, sixty years from now they will be talking about the great time that they had on this trip, and they will remember Craig and Doug.
I intend to post a photo of this group when I am able to.
And I have already asked them to transport my baggage one more day, tomorrow, from here to Whitehall, at which point we will be going in different directions.
Day 40 (Wednesday, June 25): Jackson Hot Springs to Dillon, MT
Mileage: 48.9; 964 total
Back in Jackson Hot Springs I arranged to have my baggage tranported by van to Dillon. For several days -- Sula, Wisdom, and then Jackson Hot Springs -- I had been talking to Craig and Doug each evening. They are leading a group of 11 middle-school kids, from Palm Desert, California, on a two-week bicycling vacation in Montana. Each day, one of the adults bicycles with the kids while the other tags along in a support vehicle. When I realized that we were all going to Dillon, and that the route would involve two climbs -- through the Big Hole Pass and then Badger Pass -- I asked if they would let me throw my luggage in their trailer, which they did!
The climbs were still tough for me, but not nearly as exhausting as they would have been if I was hauling all my stuff.
This was an absolutely wonderful ride....each day seems to get better than the previous. The Big Hole, which I had never heard of before this trip, is an exceptional, remote, largely unpopulated region. As I was climbing through the passes I could frequently look back and see the road for many, many miles, without any cars or people in view.
After coming over the passes I had, of course, a long downhill ride into Dillon...very nice! And I saw my first prong-horn antelopes, grazing along with cattle on a ranch as I approached Dillon. They stayed still long enough for me to snap a picture with my phone camera (at too great a distance to be a good picture) but as I was getting out my good camera, with a 10x zoom, they took off. For those of you not familiar with this animal, they are the second fastest animal on earth, after the cheetah. So when I say they "took off" I mean it....they were out of range before I could get my good camera ready for a picture.
Dillon is a nice town. With a population of about 3,700, it is a big city in this neck of the woods. I am planning to spend two nights here, resting and using the library (as I am doing now).
I am having difficulting emailing photos to my daugher, who then posts them on the blog. But eventually I intend to include, below, three photos taken along the way.
Correction: In the post about the ride to Jackson Hot Springs I said that I started seeing prairie dogs. Someone near Dillon explained to me that these were actually gophers, which are similar to but smaller than prairie dogs.
Back in Jackson Hot Springs I arranged to have my baggage tranported by van to Dillon. For several days -- Sula, Wisdom, and then Jackson Hot Springs -- I had been talking to Craig and Doug each evening. They are leading a group of 11 middle-school kids, from Palm Desert, California, on a two-week bicycling vacation in Montana. Each day, one of the adults bicycles with the kids while the other tags along in a support vehicle. When I realized that we were all going to Dillon, and that the route would involve two climbs -- through the Big Hole Pass and then Badger Pass -- I asked if they would let me throw my luggage in their trailer, which they did!
The climbs were still tough for me, but not nearly as exhausting as they would have been if I was hauling all my stuff.
This was an absolutely wonderful ride....each day seems to get better than the previous. The Big Hole, which I had never heard of before this trip, is an exceptional, remote, largely unpopulated region. As I was climbing through the passes I could frequently look back and see the road for many, many miles, without any cars or people in view.
After coming over the passes I had, of course, a long downhill ride into Dillon...very nice! And I saw my first prong-horn antelopes, grazing along with cattle on a ranch as I approached Dillon. They stayed still long enough for me to snap a picture with my phone camera (at too great a distance to be a good picture) but as I was getting out my good camera, with a 10x zoom, they took off. For those of you not familiar with this animal, they are the second fastest animal on earth, after the cheetah. So when I say they "took off" I mean it....they were out of range before I could get my good camera ready for a picture.
Dillon is a nice town. With a population of about 3,700, it is a big city in this neck of the woods. I am planning to spend two nights here, resting and using the library (as I am doing now).
I am having difficulting emailing photos to my daugher, who then posts them on the blog. But eventually I intend to include, below, three photos taken along the way.
Correction: In the post about the ride to Jackson Hot Springs I said that I started seeing prairie dogs. Someone near Dillon explained to me that these were actually gophers, which are similar to but smaller than prairie dogs.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Day 39 (June 24): Wisdom to Jackson Hot Springs, MT
Mileage: 18.9; 915 Total
This was a short, easy, "recovery ride." I needed a bit of a break,
because my legs were still tired and I had a general lack of energy as
a result of the fairly hard ride yesterday.
The trip was very peaceful: mostly just me, mosquitos, birds, some
cattle, and the first prairie dogs I've encountered.
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Monday, June 23, 2008
Day 38 (June 23): Sula to Wisdom, MT
Mileage: 40.9; 896 total
This ride, in its first 14 miles, went up and over the Lost Trail Pass and then the Chief Joseph's Pass. Then down into the Big Hole country and into the small town of Wisdom.
The ride involved lots of climbing, and I am tired out. I am going to make tomorrow a very easy day.
Going over Chief Joseph's Pass I crossed the Great Divide, so now I feel like I am flowing home to the Atlantic. But the Great Divide is very crooked line, and I have a hunch that I cross it a couple of more times before I get to Great Falls, Montana.
The Big Hole, named by early trappers, is basically a large (20 miles x 60 miles) prairie surrounded by mountains. It is very pretty, with numerous creeks creating almost a wetlands area. And the wetlands breed lots of mosquitos, as I found out whenever I slowed down, or when I stopped to take pictures.
A highpoint of the day, for me, was finding that the most common birds in the wetlands were yellow-headed blackbirds, birds that I had never before seen.
Note: Day 37 was a rest day in Sula.
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Day 36 (June 21): Hamilton to Sula, MT
Mileage: 36.0; 855 total
Didn't leave Hamilton until about 5 pm, but it was quite hot. What I
had been expecting to be an easy ride seemed to drag on and on. This
was a sure sign that I needed more rest, and so I was glad to have
reserved a cabin for two nights, in Sula (pop. 50).
The route followed the Bitterroot River. As the ride progressed the
Bitterroot Mtns closed in from the right and the Sapphire Mtns merged
from the left, so that on the last stretch I was following the river
through a narrow valley. There were many very large, undoubtedly very
expensive, homes of log construction.
Spotted many deer in the late evening, but they didn't give me time to
get my camera.
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Leaving Hamilton MT
Getting off to a very late start at 4:30 pm, headed to Sula Here is a picture
of Hamilton, with Bitterroot Mountains in background.
of Hamilton, with Bitterroot Mountains in background.
As I was leaving bike shop I met John & Betsy and their daughters Lindsey (14) and Caitlin (11). See photo They live in Washington State and are biking cross-country to Marblehead, Mass., to visit Betsy's mother! These young girls are strong bikers!
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Question about Punctuation
Dana F. left a comment on my June 19 post "Missoula, For the Record," posing a punctuation question. She knows that I have an obsessive/compulsive penchant for proper punctuation (with this blog being a liberating exception to that compulsion), and probably thinks she can give me many sleepness nights with this puzzler.
Her co-worker, Jason P., followed up with a second comment, pointing out that the office was relying an Loic, a Frenchman! As brilliant as Loic is, I wouldn't turn to him for issues of English punctuations.
The question is: what would be the possessive form of a company named "Kip's"?
So, Dana, here is my advice. But before I proceed please note that I am answering it even though, in your comment, you (deliberately, to rankle me?) invoked my pet peeve, failing to put the period inside the quotation marks. Ugh!
My advice:
(1) Review the company's public financial statements to find out what management uses as the possessive form or, if that fails to yield an answer, ask company management what they use/prefer as the possessive form.
(2) If (1) is not an option, I would just try to avoid using the possessive form, by writing phrases such as "...the liabilities of Kip's..."
(3) If for some reason (2) is not an option I would just use "Kip's" as the possesive form. I would not use "Kip's'."
(4) If (1)-(3) are not options, I would hire a retired consultant, doubling the hourly rate that he charged before retiring, in order to coax him out of retirement.
Given that you have obviously already committed to (4), I suggest that we settle the fees with a couple of beers when I get back to Manhattan!
Note: I have a hunch that lots of other readers -- Court P., Steve W., Mel T., Leslie W., Larissa W. etc -- may have views on what would be the possessive form of "Kip's." Don't hesitate to submit your views.
Her co-worker, Jason P., followed up with a second comment, pointing out that the office was relying an Loic, a Frenchman! As brilliant as Loic is, I wouldn't turn to him for issues of English punctuations.
The question is: what would be the possessive form of a company named "Kip's"?
So, Dana, here is my advice. But before I proceed please note that I am answering it even though, in your comment, you (deliberately, to rankle me?) invoked my pet peeve, failing to put the period inside the quotation marks. Ugh!
My advice:
(1) Review the company's public financial statements to find out what management uses as the possessive form or, if that fails to yield an answer, ask company management what they use/prefer as the possessive form.
(2) If (1) is not an option, I would just try to avoid using the possessive form, by writing phrases such as "...the liabilities of Kip's..."
(3) If for some reason (2) is not an option I would just use "Kip's" as the possesive form. I would not use "Kip's'."
(4) If (1)-(3) are not options, I would hire a retired consultant, doubling the hourly rate that he charged before retiring, in order to coax him out of retirement.
Given that you have obviously already committed to (4), I suggest that we settle the fees with a couple of beers when I get back to Manhattan!
Note: I have a hunch that lots of other readers -- Court P., Steve W., Mel T., Leslie W., Larissa W. etc -- may have views on what would be the possessive form of "Kip's." Don't hesitate to submit your views.
The Ride to Hamilton, MT
Yesterday I got off to a late start, about 1 PM. As I was leaving the motel I was surprised to bump into Lucas (info about him, and picture, is in my see my posting from 9:04 PM on June 19). He had left Lochsa Lodge the day before me, but had spent three nights in Missoula rather than only two nights. He was leaving also, so we rode together out of Missoula -- or I should say that we agreed to meet at a McDonalds in Lolo, about 12 miles south of where we were. There was no way that I was going to keep up with a fit 25 year old.
After a light lunch we continued south toward Hamilton, but before long he was well ahead of me. If you are reading this, Lucas, I fully expect for you to give me a call when/if you get back to NYC again.
The road to Hamilton was a relatively flat ride through the Bitter Root Valley, with the snow-capped Bitterroot Mountains fairly close by on my right,
and the Saphire Mountains (named not for their color, but for gems found there) at some distance to my left.
I think this valley is probably excellent ranch/farmland that also attracts wealthy celebrity types (Dave Letterman?)that like to have a ranch near the mountains. See photos. For anyone checking a map, the route took me through Florence, Stevensville, and Corvallis.
Hamilton is a nice little town. After a late breakfast I dropped my bike off at a shop to have the chain replaced (I had known that chains stretch and need to be replaced every so often, but was surprised to find out that the life expectancy of the newest type of chain is only about 800 to 1,000 miles). While waiting for the work to be done I enjoyed some live folk music at a town fair, took a quick tour of the museum, and then wondered over to the library.
I guess I will get a late start again today, but plan to go only as far as Sula, where I will probably have a rest day. I have decided to deviate slightly from the route I published before, sticking to the Lewis & Clark Trail System, but instead of taking the route they followed going west, I will take an alternate route that Clark explored on their eastbound trip. This will take me over the Lost Trail Pass (6,990 ft), the Big Hole Pass (7,360 ft), and Badger Pass (6,760), so I want to be well-rested before starting out. This is supposed to take me through country that is even more beautiful than what I have seen so far. (I will be passing through the towns of Wisdom and Jackson before merging with the "original" route just west of Dillon.
After a light lunch we continued south toward Hamilton, but before long he was well ahead of me. If you are reading this, Lucas, I fully expect for you to give me a call when/if you get back to NYC again.
The road to Hamilton was a relatively flat ride through the Bitter Root Valley, with the snow-capped Bitterroot Mountains fairly close by on my right,
and the Saphire Mountains (named not for their color, but for gems found there) at some distance to my left. 
I think this valley is probably excellent ranch/farmland that also attracts wealthy celebrity types (Dave Letterman?)that like to have a ranch near the mountains. See photos. For anyone checking a map, the route took me through Florence, Stevensville, and Corvallis.Hamilton is a nice little town. After a late breakfast I dropped my bike off at a shop to have the chain replaced (I had known that chains stretch and need to be replaced every so often, but was surprised to find out that the life expectancy of the newest type of chain is only about 800 to 1,000 miles). While waiting for the work to be done I enjoyed some live folk music at a town fair, took a quick tour of the museum, and then wondered over to the library.
I guess I will get a late start again today, but plan to go only as far as Sula, where I will probably have a rest day. I have decided to deviate slightly from the route I published before, sticking to the Lewis & Clark Trail System, but instead of taking the route they followed going west, I will take an alternate route that Clark explored on their eastbound trip. This will take me over the Lost Trail Pass (6,990 ft), the Big Hole Pass (7,360 ft), and Badger Pass (6,760), so I want to be well-rested before starting out. This is supposed to take me through country that is even more beautiful than what I have seen so far. (I will be passing through the towns of Wisdom and Jackson before merging with the "original" route just west of Dillon.
Minor Correction of No Consequence
My June 18 post stated that I rode to Missoula on Day 32. Actually, Day 32 was a rest day at Lochsa Lodge, and I went to Missoula on Day 33.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Day 35 (Friday, June 20): Missoula to Hamilton, MT
Mileage: 52.0; 819 total
Hamilton seems like a nice little town. I expect go to the library in the morning and type a slightly longer post.
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Missoula, For the Record
This is a nice, small, college town. And it is possible to eat well, here.
I ran a lot of errands today:
Mileage: 10.1; 777 total
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Answer to the June 10 Question for the Math Geeks
On June 10 I posted a riddle, noting that I had glanced at my odometer, read the total mileage, and realized that if I could stop there it would really be a perfect day.
What was the mileage?
I suspect that this was so trivial for the math geeks (especially with the word "perfect" all but giving away the answer) that none would condescend to answering it. Correct answers were submitted by Jeff Y, who is a semi-math geek, and by Larissa W, a non-geek who remembered something from her highschool days.
The answer is 496, the third in the infinite series of "perfect" numbers (6, 28, 496,...). "Perfect" numbers, so named by the ancient Greeks, are numbers that are equal to the sum of their devisors (counting 1 as a devisors, but not counting the number itself. Thus the devisors of 6 are 1, 2, and 3, and they sum to 6. Likewise, the devisors of 28 are 1, 2, 4, 7, and 14, and these sum to 28. You test 496 if you are interested. Or the next one, 8128, if you are really interested.
(If you were to Google "perfect numbers" you would realize that you could devote a lifetime to their study.)
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Lack of AT&T Coverage
The next portion of my trip will take me on a round-a-bout, 450 mile route to Great Falls, Montana (only 150 miles as the crow flies). This will probably take 10 - 14 days, during which I do not expect to have AT&T service. I will post from libraries, when available.
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Some of the People I Met Along the Way (continued)
I met Mike and his wife Bernadette, from Missoula, and Bernadette's sister Madeleine (from Hampstead, Maryland, which is between Baltimore and Gettysburg), when I was about 20 miles west of the Lochsa Lodge. They were sightseeing, standing by their truck, and I stopped to talk. I enjoyed their company, and was ecstatic when Bernadette offered me a bottle of ice cold water from their cooler. Several miles after leaving Wilderness Gateway Campground on Monday, I realized that I had neglected to fill one of my three water bottles. It was a hot, dry day, and after drinking about 60 ounces of water that I had in a Camelback, I was down to two 20 ounce bottles to last the next 20 miles. Of course, with numerous (ice cold) creeks running into the Lochsa River, I could have stopped any time, purified some water, and had a cold refreshing drink. But I was impatient to reach the Lochsa Lodge and so had not done so and was keeping my thirst at bay, barely, by occassional sips of warm water. That bottle of cold water from Bernadette was just what I needed.
They were all staying at the Lochsa Lodge, also, and so we had dinner together and breakfast together the next morning. You wOne of Madeleine's three children, incidentally, goes to Pace University in NYC and will be living in Brooklyn next semester...small world. Mike and Bernadette have two sons, of the older of whom is now serving in Iraq; I congratulate him for taking this responsibility at the same time that I regret that our leadership created this damned war. For those of you interested in politics, Mike was wearing an "Obama" sticker on his shirt. He said that he thought that Western Montana would favor Obama, and that Eastern Montana, which is more conservative, would favor McCain.
Their picture is below, showing from right to left, Bernadette, Madeleine, and Michael. The fourth person, on the far left, is Lucas, whom we met the evening before and who joined us for breakfast. Lucas, a young pianist and Steinway salesman from Spokane (by way of Salt Lake City), is also bicycling from the west coast to the east coast. If you Google his name -- Lucas Kirby -- you will find that he is quite an accomplished composer and pianist. I understand that one of his compositions was "number 1" on the Internet charts for quite awhile.
I spent Monday as a rest day at Lochsa Lodge. In the afternoon three motorcyclists, Steve, Ron, and Al, rode in and they had the cabin next to mine. For the motorcycle buffs who are reading this, they had three beautiful bikes: a Honda GoldenWings; a BMW 1200GS; and a BMW 1200RS. We got acquainted, lounging on chairs in front of the cabins, in the afternoon, and then I joined them at their dinner table in the evening after I had finished my meal and they were starting theirs.
In the picture below, taken on Steve's camera and emailed to me, from left to right they are Al, me, Steve, and Ron. Al and Ron are from Lewiston, Idaho, and Steve is from Helena, Montana. They got together to ride along Route 12 and relax at the Lochsa Lodge. (The libarian just announced that the library is closing in a few minutes, so I need to wrap this up quickly!) Steve is a retired journalist who now keeping busy with his ranch, growing hay and raising beef cattle. Al, a retired businessman, dabbles a little bit with motorcycle sales -- he is called in when a potential customer needs to talk with a BMW expert, and he organizes bike tours in various locations, including New Zealand. Ron, who must be the youngster in the group, is still working, as an independent painter in Lewiston.
They were all staying at the Lochsa Lodge, also, and so we had dinner together and breakfast together the next morning. You wOne of Madeleine's three children, incidentally, goes to Pace University in NYC and will be living in Brooklyn next semester...small world. Mike and Bernadette have two sons, of the older of whom is now serving in Iraq; I congratulate him for taking this responsibility at the same time that I regret that our leadership created this damned war. For those of you interested in politics, Mike was wearing an "Obama" sticker on his shirt. He said that he thought that Western Montana would favor Obama, and that Eastern Montana, which is more conservative, would favor McCain.
Their picture is below, showing from right to left, Bernadette, Madeleine, and Michael. The fourth person, on the far left, is Lucas, whom we met the evening before and who joined us for breakfast. Lucas, a young pianist and Steinway salesman from Spokane (by way of Salt Lake City), is also bicycling from the west coast to the east coast. If you Google his name -- Lucas Kirby -- you will find that he is quite an accomplished composer and pianist. I understand that one of his compositions was "number 1" on the Internet charts for quite awhile.
I spent Monday as a rest day at Lochsa Lodge. In the afternoon three motorcyclists, Steve, Ron, and Al, rode in and they had the cabin next to mine. For the motorcycle buffs who are reading this, they had three beautiful bikes: a Honda GoldenWings; a BMW 1200GS; and a BMW 1200RS. We got acquainted, lounging on chairs in front of the cabins, in the afternoon, and then I joined them at their dinner table in the evening after I had finished my meal and they were starting theirs.
In the picture below, taken on Steve's camera and emailed to me, from left to right they are Al, me, Steve, and Ron. Al and Ron are from Lewiston, Idaho, and Steve is from Helena, Montana. They got together to ride along Route 12 and relax at the Lochsa Lodge. (The libarian just announced that the library is closing in a few minutes, so I need to wrap this up quickly!) Steve is a retired journalist who now keeping busy with his ranch, growing hay and raising beef cattle. Al, a retired businessman, dabbles a little bit with motorcycle sales -- he is called in when a potential customer needs to talk with a BMW expert, and he organizes bike tours in various locations, including New Zealand. Ron, who must be the youngster in the group, is still working, as an independent painter in Lewiston.
Some of the People I Met Along the Way
Ever since leaving Seaside, Oregon, the highlights of the trip have been the scenery and the people. Let me tell you about a few that I met in the past several days.
Below is a picture of Steve and Shana, friends from Boise who had come to the Lochsa River for the weekend to do some kayaking. After unloading the kayaks, Steve left Shana to guard them while he drove back downstream and then got a ride back to where he had left them. This gave me about 45 minutes to chat with Shana, a very charming young woman from the Boston area. Ted Z. -- you will be interested to know that she graduated from Lehigh in 2001. After working in NYC for several years, she decided to take a job in Boise, and is thrilled with the exciting, adventurous lifestyle that she now has in Idaho. I said she was charming, and she sure charmed me when she wished me a happy Father's Day!
Steve is just finishing up a degree in nursing, and hopes to move to Anchorage, Alaska in about a year. His interest in moving there is mostly for the recreational opportunities, and I am sure he would love it there. Steve gave me a good tip: he told me that I would find a great, unpublicized hot spring about a quarter of a mile down a trail near mile post 41 (and then another, well-known hot spring at mile post 51. I think we were at about mile post 20 when he gave me this information. Unfortunately, I must have gotten confused, because I thought he said the first one was at mile post 42. When I got to mile post 42 I did find a trail and hiked down it a little ways, alongside one of the many creeks that pour into the Lochsa River; I didn't find any hot spring, but I did find a nice sunny rock that I could lie down on and nap for a half-hour.
My time is about to expire on this computer, but I believe I will be able to get another computer right away and then continue this post.
Below is a picture of Steve and Shana, friends from Boise who had come to the Lochsa River for the weekend to do some kayaking. After unloading the kayaks, Steve left Shana to guard them while he drove back downstream and then got a ride back to where he had left them. This gave me about 45 minutes to chat with Shana, a very charming young woman from the Boston area. Ted Z. -- you will be interested to know that she graduated from Lehigh in 2001. After working in NYC for several years, she decided to take a job in Boise, and is thrilled with the exciting, adventurous lifestyle that she now has in Idaho. I said she was charming, and she sure charmed me when she wished me a happy Father's Day!
Steve is just finishing up a degree in nursing, and hopes to move to Anchorage, Alaska in about a year. His interest in moving there is mostly for the recreational opportunities, and I am sure he would love it there. Steve gave me a good tip: he told me that I would find a great, unpublicized hot spring about a quarter of a mile down a trail near mile post 41 (and then another, well-known hot spring at mile post 51. I think we were at about mile post 20 when he gave me this information. Unfortunately, I must have gotten confused, because I thought he said the first one was at mile post 42. When I got to mile post 42 I did find a trail and hiked down it a little ways, alongside one of the many creeks that pour into the Lochsa River; I didn't find any hot spring, but I did find a nice sunny rock that I could lie down on and nap for a half-hour.
My time is about to expire on this computer, but I believe I will be able to get another computer right away and then continue this post.
The Ride From Kamiah to Wilderness Gateway to Lochsa Lodge to Missoula
This was a beautiful ride, following U.S. Route 12 along the Clearwater and Lochsa (which mergers with the Selway to form the Clearwater) Rivers and then up through Lolo Pass to get through the Bitterroot Mountains. It generally follows the Lewis & Clark route, which in turn followed the route that the Nez Perce had followed form many (thousands?) of years, and which in turn followed animal trails through this inhospital, mountainous area. The mountains aren't towering, but they come one after another, spread out in all directions, each with very steep sides. It was very difficult for Lewis & Clark to penetrate, and U.S. 12 itself was not put through until 1962. This route apparently falls along the northern edge of the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness Area, 4 million acres that are largely unchanged from Lewis & Clark's days. I read that if you were to go south from Route 12 it would be more than 100 miles until you came to another paved road, and in that expanse you would only hit one dirt road.
In the photos that follow I will start with one picture of Winchester, the town that I was in before leaving for Kamiah. You won't have any trouble spotting it.
Then comes a picture of Kamiah, once a major Nez Perce settlement.
Then one of the Heart of the Monster (the mound to the right of the trees). This is sacred ground for the Nez Perce, because in their creation myth the Nez Perce were formed from the heart of a monster, which then turned into this stone mound.
Then four scenic shots, the fourth showing kayakers in the Lochsa River, which is excellent for whitewater kayaking and rafting.
Then my campsite at Wilderness Gateway, followed by my cabin at Lochsa Lodge.
A view looking back from the approach to Lolo Summit.
A nice rock formation descending into Montana.
A baby moose.
If you are ever in this area, I highly recommend a drive along U.S. 12!
In the photos that follow I will start with one picture of Winchester, the town that I was in before leaving for Kamiah. You won't have any trouble spotting it.
Then comes a picture of Kamiah, once a major Nez Perce settlement.
Then one of the Heart of the Monster (the mound to the right of the trees). This is sacred ground for the Nez Perce, because in their creation myth the Nez Perce were formed from the heart of a monster, which then turned into this stone mound.
Then four scenic shots, the fourth showing kayakers in the Lochsa River, which is excellent for whitewater kayaking and rafting.
Then my campsite at Wilderness Gateway, followed by my cabin at Lochsa Lodge.
A view looking back from the approach to Lolo Summit.
A nice rock formation descending into Montana.
A baby moose.
If you are ever in this area, I highly recommend a drive along U.S. 12!
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Catching Up On Past Several Days
I have note been able to post anything for several days, because I have not had AT&T service, and have not had access to any libraries.
The past several days have been great! Fantastic scenery along U.S. Route 12, and crystal clear days. Here is a brief summary:
Day 29, Kamiah to Lowell, Idaho
Mileage: 32.9; 639 total
Day 30, Lowell to Wilderness Gateway Campground, Idaho
Mileage: 27.3; 666 total
Day 31, Wilderness Gateway to Lochsa Lodge, Idaho
Mileage: 41.4; 708 total
Day 32, Lochsa Lodge, Idaho to Missoula, Montana
Mileage: 59.2; 767 total
I will be staying in Missoula at least one day, and will try to find time to post more details tomorrow.
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Friday, June 13, 2008
Posting Anonymous Comments
I appreciate the fact that so many readers are sending in comments.
My understanding is that when you attempt to submit a comment, Google wants to establish a Google identification for you. If you decline this, Google will still post your comment but will post it with the name Anonymous. Please put some identifier in your message so that I know who you are, because otherwise I am not allowing any truly anonymous comments to be posted. Thanks.
My understanding is that when you attempt to submit a comment, Google wants to establish a Google identification for you. If you decline this, Google will still post your comment but will post it with the name Anonymous. Please put some identifier in your message so that I know who you are, because otherwise I am not allowing any truly anonymous comments to be posted. Thanks.
Day 28: Winchester to Kamiah, Idaho
Mileage: 44.0; 606 total
This was a nice ride on a beautiful, clear day over rolling hills on a high plateau known as Mt. Craig. Then a 10 mile descent into Kamiah, in a snug little valley that looks like how I had imagined Idaho.
I am not getting any AT&T coverage, and so cannot post photos. Luckily, the town library was open, giving me an opportunity to post this.
This was a nice ride on a beautiful, clear day over rolling hills on a high plateau known as Mt. Craig. Then a 10 mile descent into Kamiah, in a snug little valley that looks like how I had imagined Idaho.
I am not getting any AT&T coverage, and so cannot post photos. Luckily, the town library was open, giving me an opportunity to post this.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Response to Greg B.
In a recent comment, Greg B. asked if I was killing any time by memorizing poems, as we had discussed. (Greg and I are both of an age for which a common high-school experience was having to memorize poetry, and we both enjoyed that and still recall stuff we memorized almost 50 years ago.)
The answer is "no." The main reason is that I haven't had any time to kill. I have found myself almost fully occupied by the trip, and even on "rest days" I am busy blogging and resting. Maybe when I am crossing the plains, if I get that far, I will want something to think about to break the monotony, but so far that hasn't been an issue.
I even decided not to carry a book that I purchased specifically for this trip: an excellent edition of Moby Dick, filled with explanations and discussions that could keep me occupied for a long time. Because of weight considerations, I mailed it to a cousin in Montana, and will probably start carrying it in a month or so.
The answer is "no." The main reason is that I haven't had any time to kill. I have found myself almost fully occupied by the trip, and even on "rest days" I am busy blogging and resting. Maybe when I am crossing the plains, if I get that far, I will want something to think about to break the monotony, but so far that hasn't been an issue.
I did bring a print out, several pages long, of The Rime of the Ancient Mariner, so that I can have something to read/memorize if/when I start getting too bored on the bike.
Response to Linda B.
In a recent comment Linda B. asked if the tendancy to overestimate the steepness of a hill could be related to Einstein's Theory of Relativity. No, it is purely a matter of visual perception. The Theory of Relativity would not enter into it unless my speed were approaching the speed of light, and I assure you I am not going anywhere near that speed!
Adventure Cycling Association
In a June 9 posting I said that I was following the Lewis & Clark Trail from Seaside, Oregon, to Pierre, SD. I should have explained that, more precisely, I am following the Lewis & Clark Bicycle Route, as laid out by the Adventure Cycling Association (ACA). The ACA, based in Missoula, Montana, promotes long-distance bike rides in the U.S. and sells excellent maps of the various routes. In addition to providing directions over roads they have selected as best for bicyclists, the maps provide "elevation profiles" so that you can get a sense of how much climbing you will need to do on various parts of the route. The maps also specify where there are motels, restaurants, campsites, grocery stores, post offices, libraries, bike shops, and other services along the route, and provide phone numbers for them. All of this information makes it relatively easy to plan the trip.
Two More Thoughts About Hills
At the risk of getting too shallow, I feel compelled to add two more thoughts (expanding my June 10 posting) that were much on my mind as I slogged up to Winchester yesterday:
(3) Climbing a long hill, it can be frustrating to think about how much more elevation there is to gain, and how much farther it is to the top. But it is worthwhile to stop on occasion and look down into the valley from which you started, for you are bound to be encouraged by seeing how far you have already come.
(4) I have been on hills that are so steep that I cannot keep pedaling, even in my easiest gear at a measly 2.5 miles per hour. But I have never encountered a hill that I couldn't walk up, pushing my bike, at 2 miles an hour.
(3) Climbing a long hill, it can be frustrating to think about how much more elevation there is to gain, and how much farther it is to the top. But it is worthwhile to stop on occasion and look down into the valley from which you started, for you are bound to be encouraged by seeing how far you have already come.
(4) I have been on hills that are so steep that I cannot keep pedaling, even in my easiest gear at a measly 2.5 miles per hour. But I have never encountered a hill that I couldn't walk up, pushing my bike, at 2 miles an hour.
Day 26: Lewiston to Winchester, Idaho
Mileage: 43.6; 562 total
(This is an account of my ride yesterday, Wednesday, June 11. I am in an AT&T "dead-zone," so I cannot post anything from my iPhone, but Winchester has a little library so I am able to log on to the Internet today from a library computer.)
Yesterday's ride: several miles leaving Lewiston; 15 miles uphill; a steep descent; 20 miles uphill to Winchester. Temperature about 50 degrees most of the day, overcast and damp. The last five miles at about 42 degrees, in rain. Most of the uphill was a very gentle grade, enough to slow me down but not wear me out. But there was an eight-mile stretch (mile 28 to 36) that was very difficult for me and really took it's toll.
I had known it would be a difficult day, and fortunately it wasn't any harder than I had expected.
For dinner I had deep-fried fish sticks, french fries, salad, and a chocolate bar for desert. I am still traveling on my stomach, Greg B., but I think my days of fine dining are over for awhile.
After dinner I found the bicycle group that I had seen leaving Lewiston in the morning. They are on their way to St. Augustine, Florida. I would never be able to keep up with a group like this, because they travel much further each day than I do, and rarely take a rest day (I understand that they cycled for ten days before taking there first day off).
(This is an account of my ride yesterday, Wednesday, June 11. I am in an AT&T "dead-zone," so I cannot post anything from my iPhone, but Winchester has a little library so I am able to log on to the Internet today from a library computer.)
Yesterday's ride: several miles leaving Lewiston; 15 miles uphill; a steep descent; 20 miles uphill to Winchester. Temperature about 50 degrees most of the day, overcast and damp. The last five miles at about 42 degrees, in rain. Most of the uphill was a very gentle grade, enough to slow me down but not wear me out. But there was an eight-mile stretch (mile 28 to 36) that was very difficult for me and really took it's toll.
I had known it would be a difficult day, and fortunately it wasn't any harder than I had expected.
For dinner I had deep-fried fish sticks, french fries, salad, and a chocolate bar for desert. I am still traveling on my stomach, Greg B., but I think my days of fine dining are over for awhile.
After dinner I found the bicycle group that I had seen leaving Lewiston in the morning. They are on their way to St. Augustine, Florida. I would never be able to keep up with a group like this, because they travel much further each day than I do, and rarely take a rest day (I understand that they cycled for ten days before taking there first day off).
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Departing Lewiston Soon
I just went to the local breakfast spot and as I arrived I met a group of cyclists who were just leaving. They are on a ride from Seaside, Oregon to St Augustine, Florida, on a trip arranged by the Adventure Cycling Association. They appeared to have a lot of old-timers, like myself, but are probably more fit. And they are on an assisted ride, meaning that a van or truck carries all their gear, so they are moving much faster than I am.
They are spending the night in Winchester, as I am, and so I hope to have a chance to talk with them there.
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Lewiston, Idaho - Wrap-Up
Mileage: 6.7; 518 total
The last two days have been good for rest and recuperation, and I am eager to get started tomorrow morning.
One major accomplishment was to go thru all of my stuff and cull out everything I thought I could do without for a couple of weeks. I mailed 10.5 pounds of stuff to myself in Missoula, Montana.
Lewiston, Idaho and Clarkston, Washington are sister cities, joined by the "blue bridge" (see photo). In the photo, taken from the Clarkston side, the Snake River comes in from the south (right side) and immediately curves to the west, with the Clearwater River merging from the east.
Of the two cities, Clarkston seems to be a bit more spreadout. Lewiston has a well-defined, and attractive, Main Street (see photo). Lewiston, incidentally, was Idaho's first capital (but Jeff T. probably knew that!).
I stayed at the EconoLodge motel where Jeg (see photo) and his father treated me very well. Jeg's father, originally from Punjab, lived in Southern California for more than 20 years. He bought this motel about two months ago and moved here with Jeg, who just finished 8th grade. They both love it here. Jeg's mother and two sisters have visited on weekends and are eager to move here as soon as they can sell their house in California. Jeg is bright and enthusiastic and great when it comes to customer service--he will be an excellent assistant for his father.
P.S. Jeg told me that math was his least favorite subject, but he quickly solved an old riddle that I gave him (3 guys check into a motel, etc etc etc, what happened to the missing dollar?)
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Question: For the Math Geeks Only
As I was coming over the hill between Pomeroy, Washington and Lewiston, Idaho, I stopped to take a photo and was thinking about what a perfect day it had been. Then I noticed my total odometer reading, and realized that if I could stop right there for the day it would really be a perfect day. What was I thinking?
A Couple of Thoughts about Hills
I am back at the Clarkston library this afternoon, taking advantage of a full-sized keyboard to post some long-ish blogs.
Bicyling for the last few weeks, hills have never been far from my mind. I certainly am not used to hills like these in Brooklyn. Aside from thinking of how much I hate them, I have had a couple of other thoughts:
(1) The grade (steepness) of a hill always seems worst from a distance. But as you approach, the grade tends to flatten out and is not that bad. The main reason for this, I think, is that when you view a hill in the distance it is easy for your eyes to recognize the height (vertical distance) of the hill, but not very easy for your eyes/brain to gauge the horizontal distance of the hill. The brain (mine, at least) tends to underestimate the horizontal distance and hence overestimate the grade. But as you get closer to the hill the brain more accurately judges the horizontal distance and therefore more accurately judges the grade. A secondary reason is that, often, you are going downhill when you approach a hill in the distance, and so taking your downhill as the frame of reference, the upcoming hill seems relatively steeper than it is. At any rate, it is nice to approach these intimidating hills that loom in the distance, and discover, the closer you get to them, that they really were not the formidable obstacles that you were expecting.
(2) Some roads twist and turn as you ride uphill, so that you never know what lies around the next corner. Other roads, like those I encountered in my first few days of this trip, are straight and evenly graded as you climb uphill, so that you can see the top of the hill one or two miles ahead, and know exactly what is in store for you. This is somewhat comforting. But I think that the routes that twist and turn, so that you don't every really know what is coming up next, are the more interesting roads to travel.
Bicyling for the last few weeks, hills have never been far from my mind. I certainly am not used to hills like these in Brooklyn. Aside from thinking of how much I hate them, I have had a couple of other thoughts:
(1) The grade (steepness) of a hill always seems worst from a distance. But as you approach, the grade tends to flatten out and is not that bad. The main reason for this, I think, is that when you view a hill in the distance it is easy for your eyes to recognize the height (vertical distance) of the hill, but not very easy for your eyes/brain to gauge the horizontal distance of the hill. The brain (mine, at least) tends to underestimate the horizontal distance and hence overestimate the grade. But as you get closer to the hill the brain more accurately judges the horizontal distance and therefore more accurately judges the grade. A secondary reason is that, often, you are going downhill when you approach a hill in the distance, and so taking your downhill as the frame of reference, the upcoming hill seems relatively steeper than it is. At any rate, it is nice to approach these intimidating hills that loom in the distance, and discover, the closer you get to them, that they really were not the formidable obstacles that you were expecting.
(2) Some roads twist and turn as you ride uphill, so that you never know what lies around the next corner. Other roads, like those I encountered in my first few days of this trip, are straight and evenly graded as you climb uphill, so that you can see the top of the hill one or two miles ahead, and know exactly what is in store for you. This is somewhat comforting. But I think that the routes that twist and turn, so that you don't every really know what is coming up next, are the more interesting roads to travel.
Bit by the Puncture Vine
Last night, cleaning my chain, I was surprised to find that the front tire had gone flat. It must have been an awfully slow leak, because I hadn't been been aware of any problem when I rode into town the day before. I removed the tire and tube, and was going to patch it but then decided to walk it down to the local bicycle shop the next day.
So this morning I went to the bike shop, and was glad I did. As soon as I mentioned that I had a puncture, Brad (and with a name like that he should be an expert on punctures!) told me that it had probably been caused by a thorn of the puncture vine. He produced a little vial filled with these vile thorns: each had a hard, needle-thin spike about 1/2 inch long, and were shaped in such a way that the spike was normally poking upward. Brad said that there were a lot of these between Lewiston and Lola Pass (shortly before Missoula, Montana). I decided to be prudent, and had him put a tire liner, and relatively thick tubes, on each wheel.
- photo on Wikipedia
So this morning I went to the bike shop, and was glad I did. As soon as I mentioned that I had a puncture, Brad (and with a name like that he should be an expert on punctures!) told me that it had probably been caused by a thorn of the puncture vine. He produced a little vial filled with these vile thorns: each had a hard, needle-thin spike about 1/2 inch long, and were shaped in such a way that the spike was normally poking upward. Brad said that there were a lot of these between Lewiston and Lola Pass (shortly before Missoula, Montana). I decided to be prudent, and had him put a tire liner, and relatively thick tubes, on each wheel.
- photo on Wikipedia
That Cowboy was no Redneck
In regard to yesterday's post, titled Don't Believe Everything You Hear, if I hadn't run out of time I would have pointed out that the cowboy I spoke with was certainly no redneck. He was bright, very personable and a good conversationalist. I may be mistaken, but I think he said he chaired the county's Democrats. He had spent his Army years, in the early 1970's, at Ft. Monmouth, NJ, and said he loved Monmouth County and had considered staying there. He fondly remembered his nights of drinking and carousing with his Army buddies on Flatbush Avenue, in Brooklyn. But all in all he preferred the West, and had returned to the Spokane area and then more recently moved to Dayton, where it was more peaceful.
Comments from Knowledgable Readers
Claude F. and Dana F. (not related) each posted comments reminding me that Stephen Ambrose is the author of "Undaunted Courage." Thanks.
And Leslie posted a comment about Astoria, ending with a great pun!
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Monday, June 9, 2008
Don't Believe Everything You Hear
This library computer keeps giving me ten additional minutes before my time expires, so I will try to squeeze in another somewhat lengthy post.
When I was camping west of Touchet, Washington I met a very nice couple who had both grown up in Walla Walla. They were enthusasitic about my trip, and were giving me lots of advice about things to see and do. When I mentioned I would be going through Dayton, Washington, the wife said something to the effect that "Oh! Dayton is a very pretty town. And the people will be very friendly to you, because you're white." I asked what she meant by that comment. She said that the people in Dayton were not friendly to non-whites. I asked why, and she said they were just prejudiced. I asked how it happened that the people in Dayton were prejudiced and she said "I don't know. They're just a bunch of Aryians." End of conversation.
As I approached Dayton, her comments had left me with a bad feeling for the town. But I was curious, and wanted to understand what caused the town to be so hateful.
The motel I checked into was owned by an Indian (Asian, not native American) family, as most motels out here seemed to be. (Note to my Indian friends: she was a Patel, from Gudjarat [sorry about that spelling], and her family had come to eastern Washington State by way of Clifton, NJ.) We chatted a bit about the contrast between NYC and Dayton, Washington. She said that her children didn't like it in Dayton, because there was nothing to do. But she gave no indication that her family was treated as "outsiders," and I didn't feel comfortable prying too much.
As mentioned in a prior posting, I had a fairly long conversation with the editor of the town's paper. I asked him, pointblank, about the comment that Dayton is a racist town. He was surprised and somewhat bemused. He said he had lived in Dayton for almost 30 years, and had never heard of such a thing. He said that the town (which only had about 1,700 residents, as I recall) was mainly white, that about one-third of the people had Hispanic roots, and that there were only a few blacks in town. But he said the only kind of racial incident that he had ever been aware of was the typical high-school fight that might involve name-calling. I began to think that maybe I had been mis-informed.
Next, I was having dinner at the Manilla Bay Cafe. There were a couple of locals there, and I thought they might be the rednecks behind what I had heard. One guy was a cowboy stereotype: tall and lean; a weathered, bearded face; a big cowboy hat, boots, and dirty jeans. He initiated a conversation with me, and he soon brought up politics. He said the whole county was fed-up with the current administration and that even though the county was mainly Republican, it was tilting heavily toward Obama. And he said that he was half-seriously considering setting up a "Cowboys for Obama" support group!
So much for that woman's claims of a biased town. She must have been aware of one ugly incident, and this tainted not only her view of Dayton, but had tainted mine as well.
When I was camping west of Touchet, Washington I met a very nice couple who had both grown up in Walla Walla. They were enthusasitic about my trip, and were giving me lots of advice about things to see and do. When I mentioned I would be going through Dayton, Washington, the wife said something to the effect that "Oh! Dayton is a very pretty town. And the people will be very friendly to you, because you're white." I asked what she meant by that comment. She said that the people in Dayton were not friendly to non-whites. I asked why, and she said they were just prejudiced. I asked how it happened that the people in Dayton were prejudiced and she said "I don't know. They're just a bunch of Aryians." End of conversation.
As I approached Dayton, her comments had left me with a bad feeling for the town. But I was curious, and wanted to understand what caused the town to be so hateful.
The motel I checked into was owned by an Indian (Asian, not native American) family, as most motels out here seemed to be. (Note to my Indian friends: she was a Patel, from Gudjarat [sorry about that spelling], and her family had come to eastern Washington State by way of Clifton, NJ.) We chatted a bit about the contrast between NYC and Dayton, Washington. She said that her children didn't like it in Dayton, because there was nothing to do. But she gave no indication that her family was treated as "outsiders," and I didn't feel comfortable prying too much.
As mentioned in a prior posting, I had a fairly long conversation with the editor of the town's paper. I asked him, pointblank, about the comment that Dayton is a racist town. He was surprised and somewhat bemused. He said he had lived in Dayton for almost 30 years, and had never heard of such a thing. He said that the town (which only had about 1,700 residents, as I recall) was mainly white, that about one-third of the people had Hispanic roots, and that there were only a few blacks in town. But he said the only kind of racial incident that he had ever been aware of was the typical high-school fight that might involve name-calling. I began to think that maybe I had been mis-informed.
Next, I was having dinner at the Manilla Bay Cafe. There were a couple of locals there, and I thought they might be the rednecks behind what I had heard. One guy was a cowboy stereotype: tall and lean; a weathered, bearded face; a big cowboy hat, boots, and dirty jeans. He initiated a conversation with me, and he soon brought up politics. He said the whole county was fed-up with the current administration and that even though the county was mainly Republican, it was tilting heavily toward Obama. And he said that he was half-seriously considering setting up a "Cowboys for Obama" support group!
So much for that woman's claims of a biased town. She must have been aware of one ugly incident, and this tainted not only her view of Dayton, but had tainted mine as well.
Still Having Problems Posting Photos
As explained previously, for some reason I cannot post photos to the blog, from my iPhone. So my general method has been to post my blog in the evenings after I complete my ride, and then email selected photos to Larissa, my daughter, in Anchorage. Then she posts them on my blog when she has a chance. This has worked out very well so far: because I am three hours before EST and she is four hours before EST, we are usually making the updates when the east coast readers are sleeping. However, Larissa (and grandson Cormac) are going to be visiting on the east coast for several weeks this summer, so the process might have some glitches during that time.
Planned Route: Lewiston, Idaho to Brooklyn, NY
Reader David (David B.? David F.?) asked whether I had a specific route in mind or if I was just planning it out on a day-to-day basis. Good question. Now that I am on a computer at the liabrary in Clarkston, Washington (sister city of Lewiston, Idaho) I will take a few minutes to answer that.
The first part of my route is following the Lewis & Clark Trail from Seaside, Oregon to Pierre, South Dakota. I had wanted to take a route across the northwestern United States, an area that I am very unfamiliar with, and I had also wanted to stop by Pierre to say "hi" to Mary Keeler, a friend and (ex-) long-time client, and her family. The Lewis & Clark Trail seemed perfect for this. Besides, Lewis & Clark were searching for a water route to the west coast, which meant that they were generally be sticking to lower elevations (and thus reducing the need for me to climb high through the Rockies!). In addition, I thought it would be fun to read about their expedition before starting out (I highly recommend "Undaunted Courage," by the well-known historian whose name I can never remember).
Here is a general description of how the route proceeds from Lewiston, Idaho to Pierre, SD:
From Lewiston to Missoula, Montana (242.5 miles): the route generally runs east-northeast, following the Clearwater and Lochsa Rivers, going through Winchester, Kamiah, and Lolo Hot Springs before reaching Missoula.
From Missoula, Montana to Great Falls, Montana (476.5 miles): the route generally runs south along the Bitterroot and Lemhi Rivers, then north along the Beaverhead, Jefferson, and Missouri Rivers. From Missoula, it goes south to Salmon, east to Grant and Barretts, and then north to Whitehall, Three Forks, Townsend, Helena, and finally to Great Falls (not a straight route).
From Great Falls, Montana to Williston, North Dakota (510.5 miles): Due to a lack of roads along the Lewis & Clark route, which followed the Missouri River in this area, the route generally runs well south of the river. From Great Falls, it goes east through towns of Highwood, Ft. Benton, Geraldine, Denton, Lewistown, Sandy Springs, Jordan, and Circle. Then north to Wolf Point and then east to Williston, ND.
From Williston, ND to Pierre, SD (509.5 miles): This route generally follows the Missouri River, on its east bank. From Williston it runs southeast to Garrison, then south to Bismark, ND, Akaska, SD, and finally arrives at Pierre, SD.
After Pierre, I do not have a definite route picked out (the Lewis & Clark route continues south to St. Louis. Mo). I plan to head east and a little north, crossing South Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin, and then to the upper peninsula of Michigan. Then southeast into Ontario, Canada, and east on the Canadian side of Lake Erie. Then to Buffalo, NY, then follow the Erie Canal to Albany, NY, and then home to Brooklyn! (And, the next day, a short ride to Brooklyn's Coney Island to have completed the coast-to-coast ride).
I am looking forward to contacting Kurt G. when I reach the Mississippi River, so that he can join me for some riding in Wisconsin. And of course, somewhere along the line I am hoping that both David F. and Mike P. will be able to join me. And Lester B. -- maybe you can join be for the final stretch into NYC!
The first part of my route is following the Lewis & Clark Trail from Seaside, Oregon to Pierre, South Dakota. I had wanted to take a route across the northwestern United States, an area that I am very unfamiliar with, and I had also wanted to stop by Pierre to say "hi" to Mary Keeler, a friend and (ex-) long-time client, and her family. The Lewis & Clark Trail seemed perfect for this. Besides, Lewis & Clark were searching for a water route to the west coast, which meant that they were generally be sticking to lower elevations (and thus reducing the need for me to climb high through the Rockies!). In addition, I thought it would be fun to read about their expedition before starting out (I highly recommend "Undaunted Courage," by the well-known historian whose name I can never remember).
Here is a general description of how the route proceeds from Lewiston, Idaho to Pierre, SD:
From Lewiston to Missoula, Montana (242.5 miles): the route generally runs east-northeast, following the Clearwater and Lochsa Rivers, going through Winchester, Kamiah, and Lolo Hot Springs before reaching Missoula.
From Missoula, Montana to Great Falls, Montana (476.5 miles): the route generally runs south along the Bitterroot and Lemhi Rivers, then north along the Beaverhead, Jefferson, and Missouri Rivers. From Missoula, it goes south to Salmon, east to Grant and Barretts, and then north to Whitehall, Three Forks, Townsend, Helena, and finally to Great Falls (not a straight route).
From Great Falls, Montana to Williston, North Dakota (510.5 miles): Due to a lack of roads along the Lewis & Clark route, which followed the Missouri River in this area, the route generally runs well south of the river. From Great Falls, it goes east through towns of Highwood, Ft. Benton, Geraldine, Denton, Lewistown, Sandy Springs, Jordan, and Circle. Then north to Wolf Point and then east to Williston, ND.
From Williston, ND to Pierre, SD (509.5 miles): This route generally follows the Missouri River, on its east bank. From Williston it runs southeast to Garrison, then south to Bismark, ND, Akaska, SD, and finally arrives at Pierre, SD.
After Pierre, I do not have a definite route picked out (the Lewis & Clark route continues south to St. Louis. Mo). I plan to head east and a little north, crossing South Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin, and then to the upper peninsula of Michigan. Then southeast into Ontario, Canada, and east on the Canadian side of Lake Erie. Then to Buffalo, NY, then follow the Erie Canal to Albany, NY, and then home to Brooklyn! (And, the next day, a short ride to Brooklyn's Coney Island to have completed the coast-to-coast ride).
I am looking forward to contacting Kurt G. when I reach the Mississippi River, so that he can join me for some riding in Wisconsin. And of course, somewhere along the line I am hoping that both David F. and Mike P. will be able to join me. And Lester B. -- maybe you can join be for the final stretch into NYC!
Stella Fino
Please note that Marlene recently posted a comment associated with Day 19: Relaxing in Walla Walla. I will be looking forward to Stella Fino's availability on the east coast. When will that be, Marlene?
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Roadside Art
Here are four metal sculptures that were by the side of the road coming out of Pomeroy. They were impressive.
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Sunday, June 8, 2008
Pomery, Washington to Lewiston, Idaho
Mileage: 34.7; 512 total
Slept well in the gazebo last night except: (a) at 11:15 pm some teenage boys ran into the gazebo "looking for a clue -- they were on a scavenger hunt, and were well well-behaved given the circumstances; and (b) at 5:00 am the sprinkler system went off (I guess I am a slow learner).
I had an early breakfast, talked with other customers, and left town early.
The ride featured a long uphill followed by a 12 mile downhill from Alpowa Summit (2785 feet) to the Snake River.
The sky was clear today and I stopped frequently to take pictures, some of which are attached, below.
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
Saturday, June 7, 2008
Day 22: Dayton to Pomeroy, Washington
Mileage: 39.1; 477 total
This was a pleasant ride through the Scapouse Hills, noted as a scenic
area of Eastern Washington. It was scenic, and would have been more so
if the sun had been shining.
After a long gentle climb out of Dayton I came to a welcome road sign
annoucing a 6% down hill grade for the next 3 miles. This turned into
a 4 mile coast and, with the exception of a few short stretches
requiiring easy pedaling, turned into an 8 mile coast.
Contrary to what the highway sign (see photo) seemed to suggest, there
was no place to stop for coffee. In fact the only public service
between Dayton and Pomeroy was a state-maintained outhouse. However,
the scenery was nice (see several photos).
Coming onto town I noticed a sign saying something like "Welcome to
the Friendly Town of Pomeroy." And it has been friendly!
The folks at the general store, who served me a milkshake, were very
friendly.
The sheriff who told me it would be fine for me to camp in the town
park was friendly. (See photo of the gazebo in which I plan to pitch
my tent tonight.)
The long-time-Pomeroy family (see photo), who invited me to join them for cake
and ice cream to celebrate Ian's 2nd birthday were friendly. Ian's
parents, both grandmothers, one great-grandmother (who grew up in
Pomeroy and remembers playing in the park as a child while her father
entertained on a piano in the gazebo), and other relatives and friends
were there. I was lucky to be able to join them. Thanks, Ian's family!
Sent from my iPhone
Walt Wright
917 783 6540
Walterwright@brooklynny.us
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